PhD Program in Historical studies
The Baroque feasts in honor of the Duke of Lerma
Every year in early August, Baroque festivals are held in the town of Lerma, that pay homage to the Duke and his court. For the occasion, the citizens of the town dress up in order to create a celebration in honour of the favourite of Philip III, who in the early seventeenth century reshaped the city and give it the Baroque and grandiose appearance that still fascinates travelers.
The main part of the festival is the parade that starts from the arco de la cárcel (arch of the prison) of Lerma (now the gateway to the city) and ends at the ducal palace. A long and spectacular story is staged, going from primordial chaos to the world of the cultural refinement of the court. Engulfed by flames and smoke, demons, fauns and other dark creatures, begin at the head of the parade, which bring confusion and fear to the city. Next, come the people, dressed in Baroque attire: artisans, farmers with baskets and carts of grain, laundresses and many others walk singing and playing ancient musical instruments. After the more evocative segment of the procession, which represents the Baroque court of the Duke of Lerma, they proceed in pairs, while refined and cultured music accompanies the elegant dances of the aristocracy. At the end of the parade, first the cabezudos proceed, ironically symbolizing the courtiers dressed in the habit of Santiago, protagonists in a world full of deceit and dissimulation. Then follow the giants of different religions and races.
Once at the ducal palace (now rebuilt and used as a parador nacional), the Dukes of Lerma, dressed in their best finery, come out from their residence to receive the court. The aristocracy greets the Dukes with great reverence and perform a series of coordinated dances, which is the culmination of the festival in honor of Philip III’s valido.