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Piazza Marina and the departure of the viceroy

Cavalieri 1After the octagon, the path continues along the CassaroThe road is the result of decades of hard work. It began on the opposite side of the city, where there are the Royal Palace and the Cathedral, in 1567. The work continued in stages, with a certain slowness, because it was to demolish most of the buildings that are located on the street towards the port. All was concluded only in the early eighties of the sixteenth century. to piazza Marina, a large open space now occupied by the greenery of Villa Garibaldi but in the past used for all kinds of events. Today, for us, one of the many knightly tournaments that fascinate the people of Palermo is performed. From the nearby palace of Aiutamjcristo, from 1567 the seat of the Academy of the Knights – a school where gentlemen can learn martial arts but also good manners – the competitors advance. The extravagance of the clothes is due to the fact that not only the most talented and daring, but also the most elegant and imaginative are entitled to a prize. So piazza Marina is transformed into a colorful battlefield (figure 2).

The viceroy must reward not only «quel Cavaliere, che romperà più lance, e farà il meglio nell’incontrare»” that is the best rider from the athletic point of view, but also the one who «prima di tutti comparirà in campo», the «più galante di persona e di cavallo», the protagonist of the most spectacular battle, the «cavaliere che porterà nel cimiero più bella e nuova invenzione» (figure 1), the most elegant and curious feat. In this way, the party becomes an authentically political occasion: the people are fascinated by the splendor of the entertainment, the noble knights can win prizes in the competition which will allow them to eliminate dissent in other contexts. That night many will return home satisfied.

Giostra cavalleresca«Oltre il lustro di quest’armi, entra in gran parte la bellezza del Cimiero, che spogliando di pretiose penne i più singolari augelli, hor del Pavone, dello Struzzo del Cigno, ed altri; anzi togliendo al mare le perle, i coralli, ne forma una grande, e maestosa Cresta, e spesso al costume più moderno nel quale è cresciuta la pompa, e la ricchezza, s’intrecciano in varie, e dilettose maniere d’inventioni, che s’alzano in certe quasi dissi capricciose, e superbe machine, che si drizzano, e sollevano in aria» (V. Auria, La giostra. Discorso historico del dottor D. Vincenzo Auria Palermitano sopra l’Origine della Giostra in varie parti dell’Europa, e della sua Introduttione, ed uso antico, e moderno nella Felice, e Fedelissima Città di Palermo, Reggia di Sicilia, fino a quest’Anno presente MDCLXXXX, Palermo, 1690).

Piazza Marina is just off the pier. It is here that the viceroy landed, and it is from there that often he will depart from Palermo, in the early dawn, often without any ceremony. But the workers are already working to build new equipment made of wood, plaster and papier mache to celebrate the new viceroy whose ship is already approaching the coast.

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